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Rusted metal in, paint-ready surface out
Brush RustGuard™ over sound rust, let it cure, then paint. Images are illustrative — results depend on surface condition and preparation.
Grade the rust before you buy anything
| What you see | Grade | What it needs |
|---|---|---|
| Orange film, paint intact | Surface | Clean, convert, topcoat |
| Flaking scale, pitted metal | Scale | Scrape, convert twice, topcoat |
| Bubbling paint over solid metal | Sub-paint | Feather back, convert, filler and paint |
| Screwdriver goes through | Perforation | Cut out and weld — no coating fixes this |
| Structural member affected | Structural | Professional assessment |
The DIY sequence
- 01
Get the car up and lit
Ramps or stands on level ground, chocked wheels, bright light. Most car rust is on the underside where you cannot see it standing up.
- 02
Probe before you plan
Press firmly with a blunt screwdriver on every suspect area. Anything that gives way is a welding job, not a paint job.
- 03
Remove loose material
Scrape flaking scale, wire brush the pitting, and sand bubbling paint back to a sound edge that does not lift.
- 04
Wash, degrease, dry
Underbody grime is oily. Detergent wash, rinse, and let the car dry fully — trapped water in a seam will ruin the coat.
- 05
Mask the untouchables
Brake lines and discs, fuel lines, rubber bushes, wiring, and any paint you want to keep.
- 06
Convert the rust
Brush it into the arch lips, seam folds and pitting. A second thin coat on the worst areas after four hours.
- 07
Cure a full 24 hours
Then filler if you need it for cosmetic panels, primer, colour, and lacquer — or chassis paint underneath.
- 08
Seal and protect
Seam sealer over treated seams, then cavity wax inside the sills and box sections you cannot brush.

Where to look on any car
- Rear wheel arch lips, inner and outer
- Sills below the door seal, especially at the jacking points
- Floor pans and footwells under the carpet underlay
- Boot floor and spare wheel well
- Bonnet and tailgate lower edges and seams
- Subframes, suspension turrets and the rear beam
How much do you need for your car?
Area
100 sq ft
Bottles needed
3
Recommended bundle
×3 — $42
Based on up to 55 sq ft per bottle on smooth steel, adjusted for surface condition. Estimates only — measure generously.
Frequently asked questions
Can I fix a rust hole without welding?
Not properly. Filler and mesh over a hole is cosmetic and will fail. If the panel is perforated, cut it out and let in new metal.
Will treated rust pass an inspection?
Surface rust, treated and painted, is not a problem. Corrosion in a structural area, or metal you can push through, fails regardless of coating.
Do I need to remove the wheels?
For arch work, yes. Access is far better and it keeps product away from the brakes.
How long will the repair last?
Prepared properly and topcoated, years. Skip the degrease or the cure and you may see it back within a season.
Keep reading
- Rust converter for carsTreat surface rust on car sills, wheel arches, floor pans and subframes with RustGuard™ — convert, prime and repaint without blasting.

- How to paint over rust properlyPainting straight over rust always fails. Here's the correct sequence — prep, convert, cure, prime, topcoat — and the paints that work over a converted surface.

- Rust converter for iron and steel that leaves a paint-ready surfaceRustGuard™ rust converter reacts with existing rust and leaves a stable, primed surface you can paint. Bundles from $24 with worldwide shipping.

- How to stop rust from spreadingRust spreads because it holds moisture. Break the cycle with the right prep, a converter and a topcoat — plus the maintenance that stops it restarting.

- Rust converter for motorcyclesTreat rust on motorcycle frames, swingarms, brackets and fasteners. What to convert, what to strip, and what to leave to a specialist.

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