Rust converter for motorcycles

Where rust shows up first

The areas worth checking before you order.

• Frame tubes, gussets and engine mounting lugs
• Swingarms, centre stands and side stands
• Bracketry, subframes and rack mounts
• Steel mudguards and chain guards behind failing paint
• Steel fuel tank exteriors, once emptied and made safe
• Fastener heads and captive nuts you are not replacing

Step-by-step on this job

1. 01

   Dismantle as far as is sensible

   Loose parts on a bench get a far better finish than parts treated in situ, and you can see all sides.

2. 02

   Brush and feather

   Wire brush the scale, feather back the edges of failing paint until nothing lifts.

3. 03

   Degrease every surface

   Chain fling and engine oil are everywhere on a bike. Degrease, rinse, dry.

4. 04

   Thin coats on tubing

   Round tube shows every run. Keep the coat thin and rotate the part as it sets.

5. 05

   Topcoat and reassemble

   Satin or gloss frame enamel after 24 hours. Refit with new fasteners where the old ones are pitted.

What not to do

The cautions that save a re-do.

• Never on chrome, polished aluminium, or spoked rims you want to keep bright
• Nothing near brake discs, pads, calipers or the drive chain
• Empty and vent a fuel tank properly before any work — vapour is the hazard
• Bearing races, threads and slider surfaces must stay bare

Typical quantities

A starting point based on the jobs customers order for most often.

Frequently asked questions

Keep reading

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