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Rust converter for cars

Car rust rarely starts where you can see it. By the time a bubble appears in the paint on a sill or arch, the corrosion behind it has been working for a while. RustGuard™ lets you stop that spread on the areas you can reach — arches, sills, floor pans, subframes, boot floors — without stripping the shell to bare metal.

  • Brush-on formula
  • No heavy sanding
  • Paint-ready finish
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From $24 · free tracked shipping on 3+

Rust converter for cars — RustGuard™ Rust Converter

RustGuard™ Rust Converter

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  • Clear labellingCoverage and results stated honestly

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Prices in USD. Free tracked shipping on 3-bottle bundles and above.

Rusted metal surface before RustGuard™ Rust Converter is applied
Before
Brushing RustGuard™ Rust Converter onto a rusted panel to leave a paint-ready coating
After treatment

Rusted metal in, paint-ready surface out

Brush RustGuard™ over sound rust, let it cure, then paint. Images are illustrative — results depend on surface condition and preparation.

Where rust shows up first

The areas worth checking before you order.

  • Wheel arch lips and inner arches where road salt collects
  • Sill and rocker panels below the door seal line
  • Floor pans and footwells, especially under old carpet underlay
  • Boot floor, spare wheel well and battery tray
  • Subframes, suspension turrets and rear beam
  • Bonnet and tailgate seams where water sits in the fold

Step-by-step on this job

  1. 01

    Get the car up and lit

    Ramps or axle stands on level ground, wheels chocked, and a bright inspection light. You cannot treat what you cannot see.

  2. 02

    Feather the paint edge

    Where rust has broken through, sand back until you reach sound paint with no lifting edge. Vacuum the dust out of the seams.

  3. 03

    Degrease hard

    Underbody film is oil, wax and road grime. Wash with detergent, rinse, and let it dry fully — trapped water stops the reaction.

  4. 04

    Brush the converter into the pitting

    Work along seams and inside lips with a small brush. Two thin coats on pitted areas beats one heavy coat.

  5. 05

    Cure 24 hours, then topcoat

    Chassis paint, underbody schutz or acrylic enamel all go over the cured film. Do not shortcut the cure — trapped moisture blisters the topcoat.

Rust converter for cars — treated metal surface
Illustrative image. Results vary with surface condition and preparation.

What not to do

The cautions that save a re-do.

  • Never apply near brake friction surfaces, discs, pads or wheel bearings
  • Mask fuel and brake lines, rubber bushes and electrical connectors
  • Keep it off glass, trim and good paint — wipe overspill immediately while wet
  • If a screwdriver goes through the panel, it needs welding, not converter

Typical quantities

A starting point based on the jobs customers order for most often.

JobBottles
Both rear arches1 bottle
Sills plus both arches2 bottles
Full underside of a hatchback3–5 bottles
Floor pans and boot floor2 bottles
Full 4x4 or van underside5–8 bottles

Work out your exact quantity

Rust condition

Area

100 sq ft

Bottles needed

3

Recommended bundle

×3 — $42

Based on up to 55 sq ft per bottle on smooth steel, adjusted for surface condition. Estimates only — measure generously.

Frequently asked questions

Will this pass a roadworthiness or MOT test?

Surface rust treated and painted is fine. Corrosion in a prescribed structural area, or metal you can perforate, is a failure regardless of what you coat it with.

Can I use it inside the cabin?

Yes, on the floor pan with carpet and underlay removed. Ventilate the car and let it cure fully before refitting trim.

Do I need to remove the wheels?

For arch work, yes — you want proper access to the inner lip, and it keeps product off the brakes.

What about seam sealer?

Convert first, cure, then apply seam sealer over the treated film and topcoat the lot.

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Ships from our US fulfilment partner, typically 3–7 business days. 30-day money-back guarantee.